Memories from our travels often come from conversations with locals rather than stays in luxury hotels or taking pictures at famous tourist spots. Although Japan's summer can be hot and humid, why not spend some unforgettable time in the Seto Inland Sea, with its mild, Mediterranean-like climate, and engage with the locals?
The Seto Inland Sea, characterized by its countless islands, has captivated many travelers both in the past and present. In the late 19th century, following the country’s major political revolution known as Meiji Restoration , a German visitor who traveled to the Seto Inland Sea praised it as "something that cannot be found anywhere else in the world." In his travel writings, he used the term "the inland sea," which is said to be the origin of the name Seto Inland Sea.
The Seto Inland Sea serves as an important maritime route connecting Japan's central areas, such as Kyoto and Osaka, with regions in Kyushu and China, both domestically and internationally. The sea was also a major trading hub historically, witnessing the flourishing trade of Kitamae merchant ships connecting Osaka and Hokkaido from the mid-18th century to late 19th century. Various products were transported to domestic regions, including salt produced from the Seto Inland Sea's warm climate and abundant seawater.
This time, we bring you to Setoda Town on Ikuchi Island, Hiroshima Prefecture—the heart of the Seto Inland Sea shipping routes—where the fragrant sea breeze brings history and culture to life.
A Town Where Travelers and Locals Connect: Setoda
Setoda, located on Ikuchi Island, is just under two hours by train from Hiroshima City to Onomichi, followed by a 40-minute ferry ride to Setoda port.
Setoda Port, a crucial hub in the Seto Inland Sea shipping routes, has prospered as "the port of Shiomachi," where boats align with the tides. The town features the "Shiomachi Shopping Street," which thrived as a path connecting Kosanji Temple and Setoda Port. However, in recent years, many shops have closed due to the declining birthrate and aging population, leading to a shortage of people to carry on the tradition.
Amidst this backdrop, a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) called Azumi Setoda was born from the renovation of a 140-year-old residence once owned by the wealthy Horiuchi family, known for their success in the salt production and shipping industries.
The building preserves the architectural style of the time while incorporating traditional Japanese construction methods. The guest rooms offer a Japanese ambiance with modern amenities like baths and beds, and provide different views from the first and second floors.
Azumi Setoda ryokan aims to foster interactions between travelers and locals in Setoda. According to the ryokan manager and the president of the local shopping district, both parties share a desire to convey the beauty of the region to many people, enhance its appeal as a tourist destination, and revitalize the local community. They discussed what kind of Setoda they wanted to create, ultimately arriving at the vision of "a Setoda where travelers and locals can interact."
For travelers, the most memorable aspect of their stay is often the "interaction with local people," and there are many opportunities to facilitate such exchanges.
Adjacent to Azumi Setoda ryokan, another ryokan called yubune features a public bath and sauna accessible to locals, providing a space for travelers and the community members to interact.
For dining options, visitors can enjoy local eateries in the shopping district or high-end charcoal-grilled restaurants using regional ingredients, enhancing their experience of connecting with local residents through culinary experience.
Activities are guided by residents who have moved to Setoda from other regions, and visitors can engage with the community at Soil Setoda, a living room of the town operated by these residents, where they can experience the local charm.
Many young locals remain in the area after graduating high school, working at places like Azumi Setoda ryokan, contributing to vibrant community building and service provision, and sharing local information with travelers.
The number of travelers from both domestic and overseas who are looking to experience island life and engagement with islanders has increased.
This influx eventually contributes to the revitalization of the shopping district, provides services to residents, and creates local employment opportunities.
Experience the elegance of Azumi Setoda ryokan while delving into the unique charm of Setoda and connecting with the local community.
Cycling Tours Along the Shimanami Kaido Connecting the Islands
One popular activity to enjoy during your stay in Setoda is the Shimanami Kaido cycling tour, which takes you across the islands. The Shimanami Kaido, known worldwide as a mecca for cyclists and a national cycling route, stretches approximately 70 km from Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture to Imabari in Ehime Prefecture.
This time, we will introduce a 3-hour course where you can rent a bicycle from the Setoda Tourist Association and cycle across the Tatara Bridge to visit the nearby Omishima Island and back.
As you ride along the coastal roads, taking in the islands of the Seto Inland Sea and island art, the Tatara Bridge appears before you, surrounded by the lemon orchards of Ikuchi Island, which is known for being Japan's first domestic lemon production site.
You will zip across this impressive bridge, crossing the border between Hiroshima and Ehime, and arrive at Omishima Island.
Omishima and its neighbor, Hakata Island, were once active in traditional natural salt production through salt pans, but modernization has led to the complete abolition of these salt fields. Today, local businesses handle the production of safe and edible salt. At the Omishima factory, you can observe the salt production methods, visit a recreated salt field, and even experience salt-making firsthand.
The ease of accessing neighboring islands by bicycle and experiencing various island attractions is one of the appeals of cycling tours in the Seto Inland Sea.
The Charm of Setoda Through Art
The landscapes of the islands in the Seto Inland Sea also attract artists, leaving behind various works. During the cycling tour, we viewed many pieces of island art.
While Naoshima is famously known as an art island, Setoda actually has a longer artistic heritage.
The "Setoda Biennale," an art project that began in 1989, features 17 installations around Sunset Beach, earning it the nickname "Museum Island."
Notable works like Masafumi Maita's "Come Into the Sky" and Susumu Shingu's "Wings of the Waves" are thought-provoking and intriguing from various angles. Be sure to ask the locals about the stories behind these pieces.
A prominent local artist who expressed the charm of Setoda through his paintings is Ikuo Hirayama who is from Setoda. Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art showcases his collection, featuring many paintings depicting the views of the bridges connecting the islands of the Shimanami Kaido at different times of the day, characterized by vivid blues and lush green mountains. You can feel his deep affection for the island through his art.
In Setoda, where there are many beautiful landscapes worth capturing in art, why not enjoy a stay where you can simply gaze at these views without a care in the world? Why not stay in Setoda, where breathtaking landscapes await, and let yourself loose as you take in the stunning views without a care in the world?
On this journey, we embodied the concept of "sanpo yoshi" (a three-way benefit) tourism that benefits travelers, ryokans, and the local community. By providing travelers with a luxurious stay at the ryokan and opportunities for interaction with the local community, we not only enrich their experience but also contribute to the revitalization of the region. A sustainable local society creates an appealing tourist destination. How about indulging in a luxurious stay in Setoda, a place that captivates and attracts people Japan and around the world??
At Tricolage, we can offer you special trips that allow for such interactions with the community. We invite you to embark on a journey with us to discover an experience like no other!
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