Less-Visited Destinations Archives - TRICOLAGE https://tricolage.com/magazine/category/less-visited-destinations/ Japan Sustainable Travel Sat, 30 May 2026 05:49:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.0 https://tricolage.com/wpdata/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/favicon-150x150.png Less-Visited Destinations Archives - TRICOLAGE https://tricolage.com/magazine/category/less-visited-destinations/ 32 32 A Circular Society Born from Japan’s Spirit of “Mottainai” https://tricolage.com/magazine/a-circular-society-born-from-japans-spirit-of-mottainai/ Sat, 30 May 2026 05:05:17 +0000 https://tricolage.com/?p=18176 The word “sustainable” is by no means just a modern trend. In Japan, this mindset has been deeply rooted since ancient times, expressed through various cultural practices and vocabulary. For centuries, Japan has cherished the word mottainai. Originating from Buddhist terminology, it conveys a sense of regret when the inherent value of an object is […]

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The word “sustainable” is by no means just a modern trend. In Japan, this mindset has been deeply rooted since ancient times, expressed through various cultural practices and vocabulary.

For centuries, Japan has cherished the word mottainai. Originating from Buddhist terminology, it conveys a sense of regret when the inherent value of an object is wasted or lost. This cultural concept stems from a deep-seated spirit of respect and gratitude toward objects—a belief that we should care for things until they completely lose their physical form. Today, it has transcended borders, becoming the global environmental slogan “MOTTAINAI.”

This ethos was vividly alive during the Edo period (1603–1867). Under a policy of national isolation (sakoku), Japan operated as a “perfectionist circular society” that entirely recycled its limited resources within the country. Waste and organic matter were repurposed as fertilizer for agricultural villages, maintaining a delicate nutritional balance between urban and rural areas while producing virtually zero waste.

It is upon this very spiritual foundation that the bedrock of Japan’s circular society was formed—a lifestyle centered around crafting items with care, using them thoroughly, and breathing new life into them as something else entirely.

In this article, we invite you to explore Japan’s spirit of mottainai and its modern circular economy through our encounters in the Setouchi region. Let us unpack the roots of Japanese spirituality and culture uncovered during this journey.

The Essence of Kamikatsu, Tokushima: A Global “Zero-Waste Town”

Kamikatsu, a small town in Tokushima Prefecture, is internationally renowned today as a pioneering “Zero-Waste Town.” However, this initiative did not begin as a marketing campaign for tourism or regional branding.

About 30 years ago, Kamikatsu—with a population of roughly 1,300—faced a severe crisis because it could not manage its own waste disposal. Driven by a desire to protect their community’s pristine lifestyle, the residents sought a system tailored to their daily lives. The result was today’s rigorous sorting system, where residents bring their waste to a central station and separate it themselves. Starting with 35 categories in 2001, the system now requires sorting into 43 distinct categories, achieving an astonishing recycling rate of approximately 80%.

Kamikatsu’s waste station is far more than a trash dump; it serves as a vital community hub where locals cross paths, chat, and connect. The town has even implemented a system where sorting paper earns points that can be used as a local currency, exchangeable for items like school gym uniforms.

The defining characteristic of Kamikatsu’s zero-waste journey is that it did not spring from an abstract environmental ideology. Instead, it was born out of a practical, ground-up search for survival, with the “Zero-Waste” label defined only after the fact.

The Kurukuru Shop: Reusing Secondhand Goods

At the zero-waste action hotel, aptly named “Hotel WHY,” visitors can experience this lifestyle firsthand. Staying there taught me a profound lesson: zero-waste is not a painful set of restrictive rules, but a practice that enriches our lives.

As residents continuously find ways to reduce waste, their purchasing standards and relationship with material goods naturally evolve, leading to a much simpler lifestyle. They begin choosing products based on how easy they are to sort and recycle, naturally cutting out unnecessary purchases. This is not merely environmental consciousness; it is a profound re-evaluation of how one lives.

Guests staying at “WHY” engage with these various zero-waste initiatives, sparking a shift in perspective similar to that of the locals. The facility is not a mere tourist attraction; it is intentionally designed as a space for social education, prompting us to ask: Why is waste generated in the first place? and How else can we choose to live? At the same time, the sleek architectural design, exceptional meals, and thoughtful hospitality ensure that the experience feels like an enjoyable adventure rather than an exercise in sacrifice.

Zero-Waste Hotel WHY

The Spirit of “Arumonde”: Making, Using, and Circulating Within the Community

Kamikatsu is home to many people who have spent their lives harmonizing with nature, naturally solving everyday challenges through their own hands, wisdom, and resourcefulness. This intimate relationship with the land has shaped a unique landscape and culture, defined by terraced rice paddies, natural forests, and traditional dyeing crafts.

In the local Tokushima dialect, there is a phrase: arumonde. Beyond its literal meaning of “using what is available,” it captures a deeper approach to life—the practice of revitalizing the resources immediately around us through wisdom and imagination.

We caught a glimpse of this local philosophy during a crafting workshop at the Kanda Atelier, run by the local brand “Sugitoyama.” The atelier hosts various workshops utilizing Kamikatsu’s natural materials, including botanical dyeing with locally foraged plants, making tassels from indigo-dyed wood-thread (moku-ito) derived from local cedar trees, and traditional Tokushima indigo-dyeing experiences available from August to October.

KINOF

During our visit, we participated in a natural botanical dyeing workshop using kihada (Amur corktree) gathered in the town. For our canvas, we used a hand towel made of “KINOF” fabric—a Sugitoyama original brand of textiles woven from Kamikatsu cedar wood-thread. After simmering the fabric in a dye extracted from the tree’s bark, rinsing it in pristine local water, and letting it dry, we were left with a beautifully warm, yellow hand towel that blended seamlessly with Kamikatsu’s natural palette.

This experience made me realize that we don’t always need to rely on imported products from supermarkets; the plants in our own backyards hold the potential to create the everyday items and food we need. It opened my eyes to how a hyper-local economy—creating and consuming within the community using arumonde—can fundamentally enrich our lives.

Natural dyeing with kihada (amur cork tree)

Redefining Food Waste: Kagawa’s “Whole Udon Circular Project”

Kagawa Prefecture boasts the highest consumption of udon noodles in Japan, making it a must-visit destination for travelers looking to indulge in the local food culture. However, behind this popularity lies a harsh reality: an estimated 3,000 to 6,000 tons of udon are wasted annually by factories and restaurants.

In response, Kagawa launched the “Whole Udon Circular Project,” driven by the familiar rallying cry of mottainai. This initiative transforms leftover udon and manufacturing scraps into valuable resources, creating a flawless local loop.

The cycle begins entirely with udon. Food scraps from the manufacturing process are collected and sent to a biogas plant, where they undergo fermentation to generate methane gas. This gas powers a turbine to generate electricity.

Furthermore, the byproduct left over after power generation is transformed into liquid fertilizer. This nutrient-rich fertilizer is then used to cultivate local wheat and scallions. Finally, the harvested wheat is channeled back into making fresh udon noodles. Through this elegant design, a closed-loop system is established: Udon Scraps → Biogas → Electricity → Fertilizer → Wheat & Scallions → New Udon.

The project also seamlessly integrates education and tourism. Local children participate in programs where they plant wheat, harvest it, and mill it into flour, while travelers can join tours that combine hands-on udon-making with a guided visit to the biogas plant.

We experienced this firsthand during an udon-making workshop at “Sanuki Mengyo,” which doubles as an introduction to the project. Kneading the dough made me realize just how physically demanding it is to create noodles with that signature chewy texture. When it came to cutting the dough, achieving a uniform width proved incredibly difficult; my rustic, uneven noodles were far from restaurant quality.

This hands-on struggle made it easy to see why so much scrap material is naturally generated during production, and it made me deeply appreciate the necessity of this recycling project.

At the same time, I realized we must not use this system as an excuse to waste food mindlessly just because “it will turn into electricity anyway.” The ultimate responsibility still lies with factories, restaurants, and us as consumers to make every effort to minimize food loss at the source.

Udon making experience with the master

The Rich Rhythm of Sea and Mountain: “Satoumi” in Shimotsui, Okayama

Next, we headed to the fishing port of Shimotsui, located in Kojima in the southern part of Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture. Sweeping views of the Seto Inland Sea framed our journey as we cycled along a dedicated bike path converted from an abandoned local railway line.
Faced with a declining population, Shimotsui has seen its community and rich seafood culture face a quiet decline. To protect the local fishing industry and livelihoods, residents have rallied around initiatives focused on local consumption and community exchange.
A prime example is “Shimotsui Yokocho,” a beautifully renovated space originally managed by Yoshimata Shoten, a local seaweed merchant. Today, it functions like a lively market where local fishermen sell water products freshly caught that very morning. Visitors can have their purchased fish filleted on the spot to eat right away. This setup creates a wonderful synergy: producers get to see the immediate reactions of their customers, and consumers can look into the faces of the people who caught their food.

Ms. Yoshie with her beautiful smile

Yoshie Yoden, the passionate owner of Shimotsui Yokocho, introduced us to the region’s environmental efforts. In Shimotsui, fishermen take the lead in ocean conservation to ensure a sustainable supply of seafood. Recognizing that a healthy ocean relies on a healthy mountain, they plant trees and manage the upstream forests, which eventually flushes nutrient-rich water back into the sea.
Their seaweed cultivation also plays a vital role in purifying the water. Seaweed absorbs carbon dioxide and creates a thriving habitat for plankton, which in turn offers food and sanctuary for small fish.
This holistic approach closely mirrors the concept of Satoumi—a coastal ecosystem where gentle, sustainable human intervention actually enhances biological productivity and biodiversity.
Witnessing Shimotsui’s dedication to this marine-mountain connection forced me to reflect on the impact my own daily choices and meals have on the planet. Moreover, experiencing Ms. Yoden’s warm hospitality allowed me to feel the genuine warmth of the locals and the comforting reassurance that comes from connecting directly with food producers.

A warm farewell from Ms. Yoshie

How Travel Shifts Horizons and Reshapes Our Daily Lives

In the past, the people of Japan naturally lived out the spirit of mottainai within an inherently circular society. Over time, modernization drastically altered our lifestyles and disconnected us from these rhythms.

Yet, this journey proved to me that this ancient ethos is still vibrantly alive in Japan’s regions. Across Kamikatsu, Shimotsui, and Kagawa, the people I met were not acting out of a rigid sense of obligation. Instead, they were driven by a heartfelt desire to protect their neighbors, preserve their hometowns, and genuinely enjoy a rich, meaningful way of life.

The new perspectives we gather while traveling have a way of quietly reshaping our ordinary routines long after we return home. Travel is undoubtedly an enjoyable escape, but its true magic lies in its power to challenge our assumptions and broaden our horizons.

This is precisely the kind of travel Tricolage strives to create—journeys that invite you to slow down, connect deeply with local wisdom, and discover fresh insights that stay with you for a lifetime.

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An Immersive Journey into the Spirit of Iwamura https://tricolage.com/magazine/an-immersive-journey-into-the-spirit-of-iwamura/ Fri, 06 Mar 2026 06:08:58 +0000 https://tricolage.com/?p=17883 At the foot of Iwamura Castle, one of Japan’s three great mountaintop castles, lies Iwamura, a historic district of Ena City in Gifu Prefecture with a legacy spanning more than 800 years. Located about 90 minutes by train from Nagoya and easily accessible from Tsumago and Magome, Iwamura sits quietly in the mountains—yet remains remarkably convenient to reach.

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At the foot of Iwamura Castle, one of Japan’s three great mountaintop castles, lies Iwamura, a historic district of Ena City in Gifu Prefecture with a legacy spanning more than 800 years. Located about 90 minutes by train from Nagoya and easily accessible from Tsumago and Magome, Iwamura sits quietly in the mountains—yet remains remarkably convenient to reach.

The castle town streets, designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, and the Tomida district—often described as “Japan’s most beautiful rural landscape”—both retain a strong sense of their original character.

Flowing through Iwamura is the spirit of Onko Chishin—“learning from the past to create the new.” This philosophy, which honors tradition while discovering new value within it, is not merely an abstract ideal. It is deeply rooted in the daily lives and actions of the people who live here.

This enduring spirit has been shaped by the teachings of three historical figures associated with Iwamura: Mr. Sato Issai, Ms. Shimoda Utako, and Mr. Miyoshi Manabu. Their ideas have become a source of local pride, inspiring a natural and unpretentious hospitality toward visitors, as well as voluntary efforts to safeguard the castle town and its surrounding rural landscape.

Iwamura is not simply a town that preserves history. It is a rare castle town where philosophy continues to live vividly in the present.

Here, we invite you to experience a journey of living and learning—immersing yourself in the climate, culture, and spirit shaped by these great thinkers and by Iwamura’s distinctive heritage, as if you were a member of the community yourself.

Tracing the Legacies of Sato Issai: On Character and Leadership

Mr. Akira, Iwamura's local guide

On a guided walking tour led by a local guide who has lived in Iwamura for many years, visitors encounter a side of Iwamura where the teachings of its great thinkers continue to live within the rhythms of everyday life.

As you stroll through the castle town, one of the first things you notice is the series of wooden plaques displayed beneath the eaves of traditional houses. Blending quietly into the calm streetscape, these inscribed words are drawn from the teachings of Sato Issai, a Confucian scholar born in Iwamura.

Sato Issai was an influential thinker active from the late Edo period to the years leading up to the Meiji Restoration. He advocated lifelong learning and a disciplined moral character. His ideas profoundly influenced many leaders who helped shape modern Japan, including Saigo Takamori. Even today, his writings are cited in discussions of leadership and management.

In the castle town, Issai’s words are still displayed on the homes of local residents. They are not presented merely as historical quotations, but as living principles—expressions of hospitality and of the town’s sincere and composed character, naturally embedded in daily life.

“Stone is heavy, therefore it does not move. Roots are deep, therefore they cannot be pulled out. A person must understand self-restraint.”

This is the phrase, in particular, symbolizes the spirit of the town.

Just as a heavy stone does not easily shift and a deeply rooted tree does not easily fall, the saying teaches that a person should understand their responsibilities and stand firm in their role.
Rather than advocating leadership through power or authority, it emphasizes self-discipline and the quiet strength that earns trust. In fact, some Japanese business leaders continue to revisit Issai’s written work, Jushoku Kokoroe Kajo (Precepts for Those in Positions of Responsibility), as guidance for those who stand at the head of an organization.

Opened in October 2025, the Sato Issai Learning Community invites visitors to engage in dialogue with Sato Issai through the use of AI, offering an interactive way to explore his teachings. Through advanced AI technology, each traveler is presented with a once-in-a-lifetime message—words uniquely suited to what they need most at that very moment.

The words etched along the tranquil streets of the castle town do more than convey history and culture—they gently pose questions to those who walk among them. Time spent in Iwamura becomes more than a scenic stroll; it offers a moment for reflection, learning, and personal insight.

The Women of Iwamura Who Opened a New Era

Ms. Anne Iwamura's local guide from Switzerland

Another sight that catches your eye as you stroll through the castle town is the series of blue noren curtains.

Traditionally, a noren is hung at the entrance of a shop to indicate that it is open for business. In Iwamura, however, they are also displayed under the eaves of ordinary homes, each bearing a single name. That name belongs to the woman who manages the household or shop—the okami-san, the female head who keeps things running.

This custom was born as part of a local revitalization effort, inspired by the legacy of Otsuya no Kata, the woman who ruled Iwamura in the late 16th century. The aunt of the Sengoku warlord Oda Nobunaga, she married the lord of Iwamura Castle and, after her husband’s death, governed in place of her young heir. Through her benevolent rule and dedication to protecting her people, she earned deep trust and admiration, and her memory lives on in the town to this day.

Carrying on the spirit of this “Woman Castle Lord,” a new community initiative called the “Sensho-tai” was launched about 20 years ago to support town development. “Sensho” is a local dialect word meaning “kind assistance” or “thoughtful care.” Wherever the “Sensho-tai” noren hangs, local women voluntarily welcome visitors and share the stories and daily life of Iwamura.

This initiative has given women in Iwamura a new and visible role, bringing them from behind the scenes of the home to the forefront of the town’s public life.

Ms. Masako Fujii from Tojiya (guest house) is a member of “Sensho-tai”

This spirit also quietly resonates with the philosophy of another important woman in Iwamura’s history: Shimoda Utako.

In the mid-19th century, girls were not permitted to study at Hankou (藩校). (A han school  was an educational institution in Edo-period Japan established by a daimyo (a feudal lord) to educate the sons of his samurai in Confucian classics, martial arts, and administrative skills.) 

Yet Utako, born into a scholarly samurai family in Iwamura, received an education in Confucianism, history, and literature. She founded a school for women that later became Jissen Women’s University (1899), playing a part in expanding the doors to academic study for women. She was one of the pioneers of women’s education in Japan, along with educators such as Tsuda Umeko, an educator whose portrait appears on today’s 5,000-yen note.

Utako dedicated her life to women’s education, promoting the independence and improving the status of women in modern Japan.

“Use the pure sensibilities and rich emotions of women to correct the ills of society.”
“The hand that rocks the cradle can also move the world.”

Shimoda left these powerful words.
Her conviction that women’s education and strength could transform society continues to resonate today. The progress of women’s empowerment and gender equality—values shared across nations—has advanced step by step because of pioneers like her, whose legacy can still be traced in Iwamura.

Brewing the Spirit of the Woman Castle Lord, Iwamura Brewery

Mr. Watarai, the seventh-generation owner

A place where the legacy of the “Woman Castle Lord” and Iwamura’s enduring pride can still be felt today is the historic brewery, Iwamura Brewery.

Founded in 1787, this family-run sake brewery has been operated by the Watarai family for nearly 240 years. Parts of the building incorporate materials from Iwamura Castle, dismantled during the Meiji period, and its narrow frontage with deep interior preserves the atmosphere of earlier times.

Its signature label, “Onna Joshu” (Woman Castle Lord), features the image of the female ruler who once governed this land, keeping her legacy alive in every bottle.

During a special tour led by the seventh-generation owner, we learned that the brewery uses locally grown rice and natural well water drawn from a 400-year-old source—chosen specifically because its mineral composition matches the water that nourishes the rice fields. This deep commitment to terroir defines their approach to truly local sake.

As winter marks the peak brewing season, we were invited to taste the fermenting moromi directly from the vat—a rare experience unique to a working brewery. Rich yet smooth, with a gentle texture reminiscent of sweet amazake, it offered a flavor seldom encountered elsewhere.

In a tatami room overlooking a serene garden, we sampled four varieties including “Onna Joshu.” Some batches are even matured while exposed to classical music—an experimental touch that reflects the brewery’s spirit of innovation.

Bearing the town’s name, Iwamura Brewery continually reflects on the meaning of crafting sake in this place. Its pursuit of authentic local sake embodies the same pride and sense of responsibility that define Iwamura itself.

Experiencing Rural Life in Scenic Tomida

Let us step into the Tomida district, often described as “Japan’s most beautiful rural landscape,” and experience both the scenery and the way of life it sustains.

The view that unfolds here is not merely a picturesque countryside scene. In Iwamura, this landscape itself is regarded as a cultural asset to be preserved and passed on.

At the heart of this philosophy is Miyoshi Manabu, a botanist born in Iwamura who laid the foundations of modern botany in Japan. He was also the first in Japan to use the term “landscape” in a cultural sense. Rather than seeing nature as something to be developed, he understood it as a legacy nurtured through the relationship between people and their daily lives. In Iwamura, this way of thinking continues to guide concrete action.

For example, in the rural areas and around the scenic viewpoint, a resident-led group called “The Association to Preserve Japan’s Finest Rural Landscape” carries out grass-cutting twice a year. In the Tomida district, local residents themselves maintain the rice field embankments and irrigation channels, preserving the scenery that has earned this distinguished reputation.

The restoration of the thatched-roof farmhouse inn “Kaya no yado Tomida” is another initiative that connects this landscape to the next generation. Renovated from a 140-year-old traditional house, the inn allows guests to experience the atmosphere of old rural life while enjoying modern comfort. During our visit, we were offered a special experience that brought this philosophy vividly to life.

Kaya no yado Tomida

Gagaku: Expressing the Spirit of Iwamura

At Kaya no yado Tomida, we had a special opportunity to experience Gagaku, one of Japan’s most ancient traditional performing arts.

Gagaku developed through the fusion of indigenous Japanese song and dance with musical and choreographic traditions introduced from China and the Korean Peninsula between the Asuka and Heian periods, reaching its full maturity in the mid-Heian period. It has long been performed in imperial court ceremonies as well as at Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples.

Gagaku also carries prayers for abundant harvests. In Iwamura, it is typically performed as a dedicatory offering during the autumn festival, joining the procession through the castle town.

The performance was a collaboration between the Gifu-based Shofukai Gagaku Ensemble and the Iwamura Gagaku Preservation organization. Seven musicians and one dancer delivered a powerful and evocative presentation.

The program featured music and dance familiar from shrine rituals. The moment the performance began, the atmosphere shifted, and a palpable sense of tension and sacredness filled the space—an experience unique to this art form shaped by centuries of history.

Afterward, we had the opportunity to speak with the performers and learn directly about the history of gagaku and its instruments. Gagaku is said to express “heaven, sky, and earth,” a worldview that resonates beautifully with the clear air and quiet dignity of Iwamura.

Mr. Fujii of the preservation organization also teaches junior high school students, expressing his hope that this tradition will be passed on to the next generation. Through experiences like this, one hopes that more people will come to appreciate gagaku and help carry it into the future.

A Culinary Journey Through Ena Iwamura

Before dinner, guests experienced grilling gohei-mochi made from locally grown rice over an irori hearth. Gathering around the fire, they savored the fragrant rice cakes while offering thanks for the region’s bounty.

Dinner featured a special course prepared by a chef from Ena city in Gifu Prefecture. The food culture of Ena Iwamura has been shaped by its harsh natural environment: mountainous terrain with dramatic temperature differences, poor soil, and long winters. Rather than attempting to conquer nature, people learned to live in harmony with it. Fermentation, preservation, drying, and smoking are all the accumulated wisdom born from this way of life.

Tonight’s course was a culinary narrative tracing what the people of Ena have eaten and how they have lived. Traditional knowledge was reinterpreted through a modern sensibility, and each dish carried the memory of the land.

The course included dishes such as salmon mi-cuit with Jerusalem artichoke purée and roasted Miura pork served with mountain dashi risotto—each plate generously showcasing local ingredients and the blessings of the mountains.

The evening was further enriched by special guests. Mr. Watai from Iwamura brewery and Mr. Sasaki from Iwamura Regional Autonomous Community Council, visited to share stories of the region and the heartfelt dedication of its people.

Listening to their words deepened the guests’ connection to Iwamura. It became an unforgettable evening—one in which cuisine served as a gateway to understanding the land and its people.

Breakfast was delivered from Ine Cafe, run by a newcomer who chose to settle in Iwamura. The Japanese–Western style meal, prepared with an abundance of locally grown vegetables, reflected both the richness of the region and the warmth of Ine herself, who moved here out of her love for Iwamura. Through her gentle spirit, we felt the generosity of this town—one that warmly welcomes those who come from elsewhere.

During this journey, we had the pleasure of hearing about the charms of the area not only from Mr. Akira, a guide born and raised in Iwamura, and other local residents, but also from newcomers such as Ms. Anne, a guide who relocated here from Switzerland. Their diverse perspectives deepened our understanding of what makes this place so special.

The Closing Chapter of the Iwamura Journey

On the next day, our final destination was the ruins of Iwamura Castle, which overlook the castle town and the Tomida district.

A short trek up the mountain path reveals not only traces of the past, but also sweeping views of lush nature and layered mountain ranges. From the summit, both the former castle town of Tomida and the present-day townscape can be seen at a glance.

As we gazed out over Iwamura, reflecting on the legacy of its three great historical figures and its famed female lord, and on the spirit that still lives on today, we quietly looked back on the encounters and insights gained throughout the journey.

Visiting Iwamura brings a sense of nostalgia, as if returning to one’s hometown, along with the comforting feeling of being warmly welcomed. Why not embark on a journey where you can experience the unique spirit that shapes this atmosphere—staying, learning, and living as though you were part of the community itself?

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Izumo: Japan’s Hidden Heart of Tradition, Nature, and Spirituality https://tricolage.com/magazine/izumo-japans-hidden-heart-of-tradition-nature-and-spirituality/ Tue, 16 Dec 2025 20:37:20 +0000 https://tricolage.com/?p=17353 A journey through Izumo reveals Japan’s spiritual heart—ancient shrines, sacred coastlines, traditional craftsmanship, and quiet landscapes where myth, nature, and daily life remain beautifully connected.

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As the plane makes its final approach to Izumo over Lake Shinji, sweeping views of misty, rolling mountains appear through the window.  The Sea of Japan and the Oki Islands shimmer in the distance. Mist hovers above terracotta-tiled roofs dotting the patchwork of roads and rice fields surrounding the airport. As I arrive in Izumo, I am excited to experience a timeless Japan beyond by the rush of the modern metropolis.

I like to think I know Japan decently well. After almost a decade working and studying here, I assumed I had a decent sense of its history and spiritual geography—but arriving in Shimane quickly humbled me. There is such a depth of culture and so many incredible stories to discover here. 

Izumo is perfect for travelers seeking the cultural depth and history of regions like Kyoto or Kanazawa without the accompanying crowds. The region offers a chance to experience Japan’s mythological and creation stories while exploring a beautiful place where nature, craftsmanship, and spirituality remain deeply intertwined.  In the current era of algorithmically curated travel, visiting Izumo is a breath of fresh air.  

Izumo Taisha and Mythological Landscapes

Our journey began with a visit to one of Japan’s most renowned shrines, Izumo Taisha, dedicated to the deity Ōkuninushi, the deity of connection and relationships. People across Japan come here to pray for positive bonds of every kind.  Approaching the shrine, the grand scale quickly becomes apparent long before you reach the main hall. I felt as though I had entered a different dimension of the country – older, quieter, and somehow more profound. 

Having a deeply knowledgeable guide to explain the history brought the stories to life. We talked about the stories and meaning behind shrine architecture, statues, and worship practices. Being able to ask questions and dive deeper into the subjects I personally find interesting was one of the highlights of the experience.

Our guide explained that archaeological excavations undertaken by the shrine revealed traces of colossal wooden pillars. These pillars once supported a building nearly fifty meters high, suggesting that the ancient shrine towered over the land. Looking around at the surrounding mountains, I imagined the ancient Izumo Taisha as a bridge between heaven and earth. Its scale and age reflect Izumo’s historical role as a spiritual heartland predating even the rise of Kyoto and Nara. 

As we walk around the shrine, more stories come to life. Standing before the enormous shimenawa rope decorating the kaguraden and looking up at the stained glass windows, it is easy to imagine why all of Japan’s gods are said to gather here during Kamiarizuki.

During the visit to Izumo Taisha, people also go to the nearby beach Inasa no Hama to collect sand here to bring to the shrine for prayers. Inasa no Hama is one of Japan’s most spiritually significant beaches, where legend says the gods of the entire nation arrive each year during Kamiarizuki. Visitors can walk along its wide, windswept shore framed by rugged cliffs.

Benten-jima shrine stands on a rocky outcrop surrounded by pooling tides in the middle of the sandy beach. Locals have a holiday to reenact the gods’ arrival each autumn, making Inasa no Hama not only a place of natural beauty but also a rare glimpse into the connection between Japan’s living traditions and spiritual mythology. Even without the ceremony taking place, the powerful rolling waves felt charged with meaning.

Pilgrimage Streets and Coastal Wonders

After returning to the shrine, we enjoyed a nice stroll along Shinmon Street in kimono robes after selecting from hundreds of fabrics. Travelers have enjoyed coming here to eat, rest, and shop during their pilgrimages to Izumo Taisha for hundreds of years. 

We attended a Herbal Tea Workshop discovering the Izumo region’s traditional medicinal herbs. After an explanation by the teahouse owner regarding the use and flavor of each local plant, we created our own herbal tea blend recipes to take home. We rested while enjoying a locally sourced organic meal served with our own herbal infusions. For dessert, we enjoyed the famous local matcha soft serve while browsing local crafts in the shops next door.

From Izumo Taisha shrine we head to the scenic Hinomisaki coast to enjoy the panoramic views from Japan’s tallest stone Lighthouse and savor some local seafood.

Following the coastline westward from Izumo Taisha, the land rises toward Hinomisaki, a dramatic point where the sea crashes endlessly into black volcanic rock. Hinomisaki Lighthouse is Japan’s tallest stone lighthouse and the largest masonry lighthouse in East Asia, designed by a French architect in 1898.  It’s the perfect place to enjoy panoramic views of the Sea of Japan and the mythological island home of Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess.

We stop to savor some freshly caught squid and shellfish at a nearby Top 100 guide listed seafood restaurant. For SCUBA enthusiasts, the coast also features an underwater archaeological site believed to be a submerged shrine. I make a note on my map so that I know where to come back to dive next spring. Afterwards, we visit the vivid red Hinomisaki Shrine to see the home of Amaterasu and Susanoo, important deities in the creation stories of Shinto.

Staying at Kararako Ryokan, quietly nestled on the shopping street near Izumo Taisha, offers an exceptional experience that feels like settling into the rhythm of the town. The design blends traditional design elements using local materials with contemporary art and luxurious comfort.

As we check in, an adorable little robot greets guests in the lobby alongside the always helpful staff.  In the evening and for breakfast, Kaiseki meals are prepared with seasonal  ingredients representing the abundance of nearby rivers, Shinji Lake, the Sea of Japan, and the forested mountains.

Staying at Kararako so close to Izumo Taisha gives the opportunity for guests to walk to the shrine in the soft morning light, while the empty grounds make the atmosphere even more profoundly special. The accommodation is a part of Izumo’s quiet, refreshing charm.

Elegant Stays and Artful Journey

After our kaiseki breakfast we make our way to the Adachi Museum of Art. Named Japan’s top garden for 22 years in a row, the Museum’s architecture and the collection held within represents the pinnacle of human creative expression and harmony with the natural landscape. Being an agriculturalist and hobby gardener, I was moved by the absolute perfection and beauty of the gardenscape.

The museum merges the landscape, art, and architecture into a masterpiece. As I admire the calligraphy, ceramics, and modern paintings amidst views of the meticulously composed garden, I notice an artificial waterfall cascading from a mountain behind the gardens.  The museum guide explained that the waterfall is inspired by one of the sumi-e scroll paintings in the collection. 

At first I was surprised that such an excellent collection would be located this far away from major cities.  After our guide explained more about Izumo’s history as a flourishing trading city, it began to make sense why so much culture and art can exist in rural Shimane.

After some time exploring the museum, we stopped to enjoy a Kaiseki style lunch at Ryokan Chikuyo.The plant based meal reflects the seasons and locality, a chance to recover and reflect on the museum pieces. Each dish reflects the philosophy of mindful eating and gratitude for nature’s bounty. I relax and enjoy the atmosphere of eating at a Japanese inn in a tatami room decorated with yoroi armor and paintings of samurai.  It’s a refreshing break from the fast-paced urban lifestyle.

Seeing the museum motivated us to create some one of a kind art pieces of our own.  We reached out to fourth-generation master dyer Amano Konya to visit his workshop. He uses a hirose kasuri technique carefully weaving fabric with century old looms and then hand-dying with indigo. The textile style is recognized as an intangible cultural property by Shimane prefecture.

Amano-san offers classes and hands-on experiences to learn his fermentation-based indigo dyeing method using natural bacteria.

You can bring your own garment to dye, enjoying a rare hands-on encounter at Izumo’s last remaining traditional indigo dye studio. The tubs of deep indigo dye bubble softly like living creatures as we dip shirts in over and over to create a layered dye effect. It feels great to take home a handmade, fashionable souvenir of our time in Izumo and learn a new skill in the process.

Divine Roots and Lasting Impressions

After packing up our new garments, we also make a visit to the historically significant Suga Shrine. It is believed to be Japan’s first shrine and the legendary site where the gods Susanoo and Kushinadahime were married after he defeated the eight-headed serpent Yamata no Orochi. The shrine’s tranquil forest setting and centuries-old cedar trees create a peaceful, sacred atmosphere. There is an optional two kilometer hike from the main shrine hall into the forest to see sacred boulders. Visitors often come to collect the shrine’s unique omamori charms, said to bring lasting love and good fortune. Visiting this shrine offers a quiet, authentic glimpse into Japan’s earliest myths and the origins of divine union.

We go by the beautiful Matsue Castle on the way to the airport for our flight to Tokyo. The striking black-and-white walls of Matsue Castle rise above the heart of the city and provide scenic views over the town, Lake Shinji, and the surrounding mountains. As one of only a dozen original surviving castles in Japan, it offers a rare opportunity to experience an authentic Edo era castle.

My time in Shimane left me with a deeper understanding and appreciation of Japan beyond just the usual excitement of travel. Shimane is a place where history, spirituality, and everyday life feel inseparable. It reminded me how many corners of Japan still hold interesting stories that haven’t been over-told and authentic experiences not polished for mass tourism. Given that popular places in major destinations like Tokyo and Kyoto are becoming overcrowded and inauthentic, taking the road less traveled offers a more genuine and enjoyable experience. 

Shimane reminds me of what first drew me to Japan years ago. I genuinely hope more people make the journey out here. Not because Shimane needs to be “discovered,” but because experiences like this have a way of grounding you, reconnecting you, and staying with you long after you’ve flown home.

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Hokuriku journey to experience artisans and traditional crafts https://tricolage.com/magazine/hokuriku-journey-to-experience-artisans-and-traditional-crafts/ Tue, 14 Jan 2025 02:19:00 +0000 https://tricolage.com/?p=6402 Explore the Hokuriku region's traditional crafts and meet the skilled artisans keeping them alive

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With changes in modern lifestyles, inexpensive products are readily available. However, using high-quality items that may be expensive but last a long time, while understanding their manufacturing process and appreciating their value, are what truly enriches daily life.

By incorporating traditional crafts into daily life, wearing vintage clothing, or living in traditional homes, reevaluating our approach to essentials such as clothing, food, and shelter can create a sense of mindfulness and calmness.

One of the great things about traveling is that it provides an opportunity to reassess our daily lives.

Two workers in traditional Japanese clothing washing and rinsing fresh noodles in large blue basins at a traditional noodle-making workshop in the Hokuriku region.

Traditional crafts are items used in daily life, handcrafted using advanced techniques passed down through generations. As of October 17, 2024, there are 243 traditional crafts designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade, and Industry across Japan.

Unlike mass-produced goods, these crafts are meticulously created by artisans using inherited techniques. Japan boasts a variety of traditional crafts, such as Edo Kiriko (cut glass), Arita pottery, and Nishijin textiles. Hokuriku, in particular, is home to many of these skilled artisans.

Hokuriku (Toyama, Ishikawa, Fukui)

Hokuriku, encompassing Toyama, Ishikawa, and Fukui prefectures, is easily accessible from Tokyo via the Hokuriku Shinkansen. The region’s relative quiet and relaxed pace make it ideal for travelers seeking a slower, more immersive journey.

When visiting Kanazawa, the region’s hub, you’ll find numerous destinations worth exploring, offering insight into the rich traditional crafts of Hokuriku.

The Masterful Wood Carvings of Inami

Inami Woodcarving, a traditional craft from Nanto City, Toyama Prefecture, has a history of about 250 years and is renowned for its unparalleled carving techniques. Today, approximately 200 woodcarvers continue this legacy, characterized by smooth surfaces and intricate designs.

Traditional Japanese temple wooden corridor with ornate carved brackets overlooking a courtyard with buildings featuring copper-green roofs and pine trees in the Hokuriku region.
Zuisenji Temple

Master craftsman Mr. Maekawa guided us through Zuisenji Temple, the birthplace of Inami Woodcarving. He explained its origins, which trace back to Kyoto sculptors teaching their skills to local carpenters during the temple’s reconstruction.

Using over 100 types of chisels, artisans create carvings of flowers and Buddhist motifs with remarkable detail. Surprisingly, the smooth finishes are achieved without sandpaper. Becoming a craftsman requires around 10 years of apprenticeship, with tasks like rough carving handled by masters and finishing touches by apprentices.

Beautiful wooden craft
Traditional Japanese woodworking chisels with wooden handles displayed in an open case, alongside carved wood shavings in a wooden bowl and other carpentry tools on a workbench.
Carving with Mr. Maekawa

I had the opportunity to try carving, which deepened my appreciation for the skill and precision involved. Mr. Maekawa, who inherited his craft from his father, now works with apprentices to pass on these exceptional techniques.

In the town of carvings, hearing directly from skilled artisans about their craft deepened my understanding of temple decorations, significantly enhancing the value of the journey.

For an immersive experience, Rakudoan in Toyama is a 200-year-old renovated traditional house surrounded by natural beauty. Guests can enjoy local crafts, art, and cuisine made from Toyama’s abundant ingredients.

Traditional Japanese woodworking workshop with vintage wooden tools, storage cabinet displaying circular molds and wooden plates, and an orange decorative tassel hanging on the white wall.
Room with traditional craft

The inn also connects visitors with cultural heritage, such as witnessing a practice session of the Ettchu Isami Taiko drum troupe, fostering a shared sense of community through music.

Group of people practicing taiko drumming in a traditional Japanese community hall, with drummers positioned at large wooden drums and a large odaiko drum visible in the background.
Heat beaten dram performance

The Evolution of Kutani Ware in Ishikawa

Kutani Ware, a traditional craft of Ishikawa Prefecture, is a vividly colored porcelain that dates back 370 years. Despite a brief hiatus, it continues to be celebrated for its intricate overglaze designs.

Elegant Kutani porcelain plate with colorful floral pattern and gold rim placed on decorative table runner, part of a traditional Japanese table setting with wooden table and matching place settings in the background.
錦山釜ギャラリーの作品
Putting a gold leaf

At the Kinzangama Kiln in Komatsu City, we were welcomed by fourth-generation potters, Mr. Yukio and Mrs. Rumiko Yoshida.

Their kiln is renowned for “Yuri Kinsai,” a technique using gold leaf to create depth.

We observed the delicate process of applying gold leaf and the precise adjustments needed to fire the pieces in the kiln.

Japanese artist painting traditional floral designs on ceramic spheres in a studio workspace filled with art supplies, brushes, and completed botanical artworks displayed on easels.
Ms. Rumiko

Mr. Yoshida explained their efforts to blend traditional techniques with modern innovations, leaving us deeply inspired by their dedication.

After the tour, we sampled tea and soup using Kutani Ware, appreciating the harmony of art and function.

The Yoshidas also host workshops, providing firsthand opportunities to engage with traditional crafts.

Luxury time at the gallery

By understanding the value of traditional crafts, we come to realize the importance of incorporating high-quality items into our daily lives, cherishing and using them for the long term.

At Kinzangama Kiln, which constantly pursues new designs and techniques while sharing its value both domestically and internationally, I enjoyed a luxurious experience as the artisans passionately shared the allure of their creations.

Echizen Washi: 1500 Years of Paper making in Fukui

Echizen Washi, one of Japan’s three most renowned types of traditional handmade paper, has been produced for 1,500 years in Echizen City, Fukui Prefecture.

Echizen Washi
Hands pulling apart translucent white squid or cuttlefish at a seafood preparation station with bright turquoise blue containers in the background.
Bleached wood bark

At Iwano Heizaburo Seishizho, a papermaking workshop with a history dating back to the late Edo period, we witnessed the intricate process of creating large-format handmade paper.

Skilled artisans prepare the paper pulp from tree bark, removing impurities and carefully blending it with a viscous liquid made from the tororo aoi plant.

Using the “nagashizuki” method, multiple artisans rhythmically sift and layer the pulp, showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship required for durable and beautiful washi paper.

“Nagashizuki” method

The paper is used for various purposes, including calligraphy, Japanese paintings, and everyday items such as notebooks and business card holders.

Various paper goods

Craftswoman Ms. Aki-chan gave us a warm welcome and chatted with us in a friendly manner using the Fukui dialect. At the end, we took a photo together, and she waved goodbye until we were out of sight.

Each step of the process is carried out with great care and attention, resulting in handmade washi paper that embodies Japan’s finest craftsmanship. I highly encourage you to witness the dedication and skill of these artisans up close.

Artsian : Aki chan

Hokuriku is rich in traditional crafts like Inami Woodcarving, Kutani Ware, and Echizen Washi, which were once presented as gifts to feudal lords. These crafts continue to be highly valued, both for their artistic and practical uses.

Visiting artisans and their workshops fosters a deeper understanding of these crafts, encouraging us to appreciate and preserve their value.

At Tricolage, we specialize in crafting unique journeys that allow you to experience authentic Japanese culture. Travel with us and discover the timeless beauty of traditional crafts!

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Nature Tours to Enjoy and Conserve Kyushu’s Natural Beauty https://tricolage.com/magazine/nature-tours-to-enjoy-and-conserve-kyushus-natural-beauty/ Thu, 17 Oct 2024 02:47:00 +0000 https://tricolage.com/?p=6447 Enjoy and help conserve Kyushu's natural beauty through meaningful nature tours and sustainable practices.

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Have you ever thought about wanting to show the breathtaking views you’ve seen while traveling to your children or grandchildren? Unfortunately, the scenery we are witnessing today may be changed in 100 years.

Wouldn’t it be wonderful if we could protect the rich natural environment of the region while enjoying our travels and pass it on to future generations?

Rolling green hills and volcanic mountains under a cloudy sky in Kyushu, with lush grasslands in the foreground
Aso Caldera

The abundant regional resources also contribute to tourism, allowing us to enjoy unique experiences in various locations. It is precisely because of well-preserved nature that travelers can savor the landscapes and local ingredients, ensuring that the next generation can enjoy the same natural beauty.

Environmental elements are essential for sustainable tourism, and the concept of “conservation and utilization,” which emphasizes using natural resources for tourism while also preserving them, has been advocated in Japan’s national parks.

This time, I experienced the important natural blessings of the region, including vast grasslands, volcanoes, and hot springs powered by geothermal energy, in Oita and Kumamoto Prefectures in Kyushu.

Living with the Energy of Beppu’s Hot Springs

Beppu City in Oita Prefecture is famous for its hot springs. This onsen area is called “Jigoku” (Hell) because it was considered too dangerous to approach in about a thousand years ago.

Today, visitors can explore seven hells (Onsen), including Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell) and Kamado Jigoku (Cooking Pot Hell).

Turquoise hot spring pool with dramatic volcanic steam plumes rising from rocky geothermal vents, surrounded by lush green forest in Kyushu, Japan.
Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell)

The unique features of Beppu Onsen are its quantity and quality.

According to a 2019 survey by the Ministry of the Environment, Oita Prefecture ranks first in the nation for both the number of hot spring sources and the volume of hot spring water, with Beppu City leading the prefecture.

There are seven different types of hot spring waters in Beppu, and soaking in them in order—from Myoban Onsen to Kannawa Onsen—provides remarkable beauty benefits.

The ways to enjoy the hot springs are diverse; you can experience steam baths lying on medicinal herbs or sand baths. Many people come for “Touji” (bath healing) to relax and rejuvenate for these reasons.

Traditional Japanese wooden structures with steep tiled roofs nestled against a lush green mountainside in Kyushu, featuring rustic timber architecture surrounded by dense forest vegetation.
Myoban Onsen

The steam rising throughout the town makes it feel like the entire city is a hot spring.

The heat from the springs is also an essential energy source for local residents, used for electricity generation.

Oita Prefecture is the largest geothermal power plant in Japan, producing about 40% of the country’s geothermal electricity. The self-sufficiency rate for renewable energy in Oita is 28.1%, the highest in Japan.

The heat from the hot springs is harnessed to generate renewable energy, and it is also used in everyday life, such as cooking with the heat in place of a microwave.

Traditional Japanese bamboo steamer basket filled with assorted steamed seafood including scallops, shrimp, corn on the cob, and various mushrooms, showcasing local Kyushu cuisine.
地獄蒸し料理 "Jigoku Mushi" (hell-steamed)

You can experience meals prepared using this geothermal energy.

I enjoyed “Jigoku Mushi” (hell-steamed) dishes at Daikokuya, a ryokan and dining hall.

Vegetables and meats are cooked in 90-degree steam for about six minutes. Guests can bring their ingredients to the impressive steam pots for cooking.

The food, enriched with minerals from the hot springs, is delicious with a natural salty flavor. You can also buy ingredients nearby and prepare your favorites.

Through this sustainable food experience that utilizes the natural energy of the hot springs, you can truly savor the essence of Beppu with all your senses.

Traditional Crafts Made from Sustainable Material: Bamboo

Oita Prefecture is known for its thriving bamboo cultivation, and the bamboo crafts have been widely recognized as gifts for the Emperor and souvenirs for visitors to hot springs.

Traditional Japanese bamboo basketwork showcasing intricate woven patterns with a decorative flower-like design at the center

Beppu bamboo crafts have a history of over 100 years and are designated as traditional crafts recognized by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry.

These beautifully crafted bamboo items are displayed as art pieces in various locations.

At the Beppu City Bamboo Craft Traditional Industry Hall, visitors can view exhibitions, purchase products, and participate in workshops.

Each bamboo craft is stunning, particularly those created by Living National Treasures, such as Shōunsai Shōno, who was first recognized in 1967, and Seihou Kibe, who received the designation in 2024.

Traditional Japanese bamboo charcoal basket with woven herringbone pattern displayed on an orange platform in a museum exhibition
Bamboo arts by Shōunsai Shōno

Bamboo is increasingly being used as a sustainable alternative to plastic in everyday items, including cutlery, toothbrushes, and lunchboxes. Its durability allows for long-term use. In addition to everyday bamboo items, the shop also offers bamboo craft accessories, making for stylish fashion pieces.

There are also tours for bamboo harvesting and workshops, as well as visits to individual studios where bamboo crafts are made, providing various opportunities to engage with this traditional craft.

Enjoy a relaxing stay in Beppu, Oita, filled with sustainable elements!

A Sustainable 1,000-Year Grassland in Aso, Kumamoto

The Aso region is located in the eastern part of Kumamoto Prefecture, near the borders with Oita and Miyazaki Prefectures, and is within the “Aso Kuju National Park.”

Mount Aso is an active volcano that erupted three years ago.

Active volcanic crater in Kyushu with steam and sulfurous gas rising from rocky slopes and a turquoise acidic lake at the bottom.
Mt. Aso crater

The grasslands spreading at the foot of Mount Aso are said to have existed for about 13,000 years, dating back to the Jomon period, where humans and nature have worked together to nurture these plains.

In Japan’s climate, grasslands cannot be maintained solely by natural forces; without human intervention, they would eventually turn into forests. By making moderate adjustments, people have helped maintain the balance of nature.

The benefits of grasslands are numerous: they mitigate sediment disaster risks, possess excellent water source conservation functions (storing and discharging rainwater), support biodiversity, and sequester carbon in the soil.

This time, I experienced the grasslands of Aso through the Adventure Cycle Aso Mountain Grassland Ride, witnessing the collaboration between humans and nature that created these plains.

To protect the grasslands, it is necessary to regularly reduce the grass cover to encourage new growth, which has been achieved through practices like grazing, hay harvesting, and controlled burning.

While there was hay harvesting for the Aka-ushi (Japanese Brown Cattle) that graze in the grasslands, the number of cattle has now decreased to 300. Aka-ushi beef is known for its rich red meat rather than fat, and consuming 100 grams is equivalent to the amount of grass that one tatami mat can cover.

Brown cattle grazing on a grassy hillside with Mount Aso volcano rising in the background under a blue sky in Kyushu, Japan.
Japanese Brown Cattle

Controlled burning, known as “noyaki,” is an important method for preserving grasslands that has been practiced since the Jomon period. Each year, the grasslands are intentionally burned by human hands. I spoke with a guide who conducts these burns.

Noyaki helps regenerate the grasslands and protects endangered plant and insect species. Unlike the large-scale burning seen in the Amazon, this practice typically affects a small area for only about three seconds, resulting in minimal negative impacts on the ecosystem.

The carbon dioxide emitted during the burning is transformed into carbon-rich ash that the grass can absorb. The regenerated grasslands are capable of absorbing twice the amount of carbon dioxide emitted by Kumamoto.

However, the process of burning the grasslands is dangerous, and it requires significant effort to cut the borders of the areas that won’t be burned. Due to a shortage of manpower, the area being burned has decreased, and over the past 100 years, the total grassland area has been reduced to less than half.

Two cyclists riding through expansive green grasslands with Mount Aso volcano rising in the background under a partly cloudy sky in Kyushu, Japan.
e-bike ride in the grassland

Seeing the beautiful scenery firsthand made me feel inspired to take action regarding these issues.

In fact, a portion of the tour fee goes towards environmental conservation activities, allowing us to enjoy and protect Aso’s natural beauty at the same time.

In winter, there are tours that support Aso’s activities by participating in controlled burning, enabling participants to enjoy both the season and the conservation efforts.

My experience of participating in the tour, learning about Aso’s ecosystem and grassland burning, while cycling through the preserved lush grasslands, became my most memorable moment of the year.

When you see the scenery of Aso, you too will likely want to preserve it for future generations.

Would you like to join us on a tour that allows us to enjoy and protect nature together?

Tricolage offers special journeys that balance environmental conservation and tourism.
We invite you to embark on an adventure with us that you’ve never experienced before!

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Local Interactions : Memories Made with Locals in the Seto Inland Sea https://tricolage.com/magazine/local-interactions-memories-made-with-locals-in-the-seto-inland-sea/ Sat, 24 Aug 2024 01:31:50 +0000 https://tricolage.com/?p=5293 Make lasting memories through genuine local interactions in the beautiful Seto Inland Sea

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Memories from our travels often come from conversations with locals rather than stays in luxury hotels or taking pictures at famous tourist spots. Although

Although Japan’s summer can be hot and humid, why not spend some unforgettable time in the Seto Inland Sea, with its mild, Mediterranean-like climate, and engage with the locals?

Sunset view over a calm river with silhouetted mountains and a small coastal town with an arched bridge, featuring dramatic clouds in shades of orange, pink, and blue.

The Seto Inland Sea, characterized by its countless islands, has captivated many travelers both in the past and present. In the late 19th century, following the country’s major political revolution known as Meiji Restoration , a German visitor who traveled to the Seto Inland Sea praised it as “something that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.” In his travel writings, he used the term “the inland sea,” which is said to be the origin of the name Seto Inland Sea.


The Seto Inland Sea serves as an important maritime route connecting Japan’s central areas, such as Kyoto and Osaka, with regions in Kyushu and China, both domestically and internationally. The sea was also a major trading hub historically, witnessing the flourishing trade of Kitamae merchant ships connecting Osaka and Hokkaido from the mid-18th century to late 19th century. Various products were transported to domestic regions, including salt produced from the Seto Inland Sea’s warm climate and abundant seawater.

This time, we bring you to Setoda Town on Ikuchi Island, Hiroshima Prefecture—the heart of the Seto Inland Sea shipping routes—where the fragrant sea breeze brings history and culture to life.

A Town Where Travelers and Locals Connect: Setoda

Setoda, located on Ikuchi Island, is just under two hours by train from Hiroshima City to Onomichi, followed by a 40-minute ferry ride to Setoda port.

Setoda Port, a crucial hub in the Seto Inland Sea shipping routes, has prospered as “the port of Shiomachi,” where boats align with the tides. The town features the “Shiomachi Shopping Street,” which thrived as a path connecting Kosanji Temple and Setoda Port. However, in recent years, many shops have closed due to the declining birthrate and aging population, leading to a shortage of people to carry on the tradition.

Amidst this backdrop, a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) called Azumi Setoda was born from the renovation of a 140-year-old residence once owned by the wealthy Horiuchi family, known for their success in the salt production and shipping industries.

The building preserves the architectural style of the time while incorporating traditional Japanese construction methods. The guest rooms offer a Japanese ambiance with modern amenities like baths and beds, and provide different views from the first and second floors.

Traditional Japanese street with wooden machiya buildings featuring dark lattice facades and ornate tiled roofs, lined by a low wooden fence along a quiet stone-paved walkway.
Azumi Setoda is located next to the shopping street

Azumi Setoda ryokan aims to foster interactions between travelers and locals in Setoda. According to the ryokan manager and the president of the local shopping district, both parties share a desire to convey the beauty of the region to many people, enhance its appeal as a tourist destination, and revitalize the local community. They discussed what kind of Setoda they wanted to create, ultimately arriving at the vision of “a Setoda where travelers and locals can interact.”


For travelers, the most memorable aspect of their stay is often the “interaction with local people,” and there are many opportunities to facilitate such exchanges.

Traditional Japanese ryokan room featuring natural wood flooring, shoji screen doors, and a private hinoki cypress bath overlooking a serene garden courtyard.
Modern Japanese room in Azumi Setoda

Adjacent to Azumi Setoda ryokan, another ryokan called yubune features a public bath and sauna accessible to locals, providing a space for travelers and the community members to interact.

For dining options, visitors can enjoy local eateries in the shopping district or high-end charcoal-grilled restaurants using regional ingredients, enhancing their experience of connecting with local residents through culinary experience.

Activities are guided by residents who have moved to Setoda from other regions, and visitors can engage with the community at Soil Setoda, a living room of the town operated by these residents, where they can experience the local charm.

Many young locals remain in the area after graduating high school, working at places like Azumi Setoda ryokan, contributing to vibrant community building and service provision, and sharing local information with travelers.

Japanese bathhouse reception area with noren curtain entrance on the left displaying kanji characters for "men's bath" and a front desk with traditional textile decoration and staff member in the center.
Public bath (Sento) in yubune

The number of travelers from both domestic and overseas who are looking to experience island life and engagement with islanders has increased.

This influx eventually contributes to the revitalization of the shopping district, provides services to residents, and creates local employment opportunities.

Experience the elegance of Azumi Setoda ryokan while delving into the unique charm of Setoda and connecting with the local community.

Two-story modern beach house under construction with wooden frame balcony and three surfboards displayed on the ground floor storefront entrance.
Soil Setoda

Cycling Tours Along the Shimanami Kaido Connecting the Islands

One popular activity to enjoy during your stay in Setoda is the Shimanami Kaido cycling tour, which takes you across the islands. The Shimanami Kaido, known worldwide as a mecca for cyclists and a national cycling route, stretches approximately 70 km from Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture to Imabari in Ehime Prefecture.

This time, we will introduce a 3-hour course where you can rent a bicycle from the Setoda Tourist Association and cycle across the Tatara Bridge to visit the nearby Omishima Island and back.

Cyclist in red jacket riding along Shimanami Kaido bridge bike path with cable-stayed bridge structure on left and scenic ocean views of Japanese islands in the background under partly cloudy skies
The border between Hiroshima and Ehime

As you ride along the coastal roads, taking in the islands of the Seto Inland Sea and island art, the Tatara Bridge appears before you, surrounded by the lemon orchards of Ikuchi Island, which is known for being Japan’s first domestic lemon production site.

You will zip across this impressive bridge, crossing the border between Hiroshima and Ehime, and arrive at Omishima Island.

Omishima and its neighbor, Hakata Island, were once active in traditional natural salt production through salt pans, but modernization has led to the complete abolition of these salt fields. Today, local businesses handle the production of safe and edible salt. At the Omishima factory, you can observe the salt production methods, visit a recreated salt field, and even experience salt-making firsthand.

The ease of accessing neighboring islands by bicycle and experiencing various island attractions is one of the appeals of cycling tours in the Seto Inland Sea.

Woman with bicycle standing beside stone monument with Japanese text at waterfront park, featuring modern cable-stayed bridge and mountain backdrop on Shimanami Kaido cycling route.
This place is a mecca for cyclists

The Charm of Setoda Through Art

The landscapes of the islands in the Seto Inland Sea also attract artists, leaving behind various works. During the cycling tour, we viewed many pieces of island art.

While Naoshima is famously known as an art island, Setoda actually has a longer artistic heritage.

Modern yellow sculptural tower with stacked conical shapes beside a palm tree at a waterfront promenade with mountains in the background.
"Come Into the Sky" Masafumi Maita

The “Setoda Biennale,” an art project that began in 1989, features 17 installations around Sunset Beach, earning it the nickname “Museum Island.”

Notable works like Masafumi Maita’s “Come Into the Sky” and Susumu Shingu’s “Wings of the Waves” are thought-provoking and intriguing from various angles. Be sure to ask the locals about the stories behind these pieces.

A prominent local artist who expressed the charm of Setoda through his paintings is Ikuo Hirayama who is from Setoda. Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art showcases his collection, featuring many paintings depicting the views of the bridges connecting the islands of the Shimanami Kaido at different times of the day, characterized by vivid blues and lush green mountains. You can feel his deep affection for the island through his art.

Framed Japanese artwork depicting a pagoda silhouette centered within a circular vortex of blue and gold brushstrokes against a warm sunset sky.
"Mandala of Setoda" Ikuo Hirayama

In Setoda, where there are many beautiful landscapes worth capturing in art, why not enjoy a stay where you can simply gaze at these views without a care in the world? Why not stay in Setoda, where breathtaking landscapes await, and let yourself loose as you take in the stunning views without a care in the world?

Traditional Japanese inn window view overlooking a tranquil waterfront with tiled-roof buildings, manicured gardens, and misty mountains in the background.

On this journey, we embodied the concept of “sanpo yoshi” (a three-way benefit) tourism that benefits travelers, ryokans, and the local community. By providing travelers with a luxurious stay at the ryokan and opportunities for interaction with the local community, we not only enrich their experience but also contribute to the revitalization of the region. A sustainable local society creates an appealing tourist destination. How about indulging in a luxurious stay in Setoda, a place that captivates and attracts people Japan and around the world??

At Tricolage, we can offer you special trips that allow for such interactions with the community. We invite you to embark on a journey with us to discover an experience like no other!

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Discover Tranquility : Rejuvenate Your Body and Mind in Ehime’s Hidden Retreats https://tricolage.com/magazine/discover-tranquility-rejuvenate-your-body-and-mind-in-ehimes-hidden-retreats/ Mon, 03 Jun 2024 02:37:19 +0000 https://tricolage.com/?p=5336 Discover tranquility and rejuvenate your mind and body in Ehime's peaceful hidden retreats

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In Japan during the cherry blossom season, the number of foreign tourists has increased compared to before the pandemic. Issues of over tourism have also occurred in major tourist destinations such as Tokyo and Kyoto, which have negative effects on both the local communities and the tourists.

During this peak season, why not experience the spring in Ehime, which is still unknown to many tourists?

Cherry blossom trees in full bloom frame a traditional Japanese temple with multi-tiered roofs against a soft spring sky.
Matsuyama Castle

In Japan during the cherry blossom season, the number of foreign tourists has increased compared to before the pandemic. Issues of over tourism have also occurred in major tourist destinations such as Tokyo and Kyoto, which have negative effects on both the local communities and the tourists.

During this peak season, why not experience the spring in Ehime, which is still unknown to many tourists?

Ehime Prefecture in Shikoku, a small island in southwest Japan’s main island, is enveloped in a warm atmosphere characterized by the gentle kindness of its people and delicious cuisine such as tai meshi (seabream rice).

Matsuyama Castle, overlooking the city from atop a hill in Matsuyama City, boasts a surviving tenshukaku (castle tower) from the late Edo period. It is said that the castle was never attacked during that time, truly symbolizing the peace of this area.

Dogo Onsen, believed to be the oldest hot spring in Japan, and its main building designated as a National Important Cultural Property. It continues to serve as a place of relaxation for visitors to Matsuyama, while undergoing renovation work. This Onsen is known for its healing effects, as mentioned in the legend of the White Heron. So I have recovered both physically and mentally.

Traditional Japanese hot spring bathhouse featuring ornate curved rooflines with decorative tile eaves and a central wooden sign displaying Chinese characters, set against a tranquil evening sky.
Dogo Onsen

Uchiko town, where traditional industries thrive, traditional culture is passed down and preserved in various forms.

About an hour’s drive from Matsuyama, Uchiko cho is a small town where traditional craft industries have thrived since ancient times. Various people such as local residents from inherited family lineages, immigrants with a deep love for their community, and foreigners impressed by its heritage, all play a role in preserving and spreading this culture.

Elderly artisan craftsperson working at a traditional wooden workbench with tools and materials, with a lit white candle in an antique metal candleholder in the foreground creating a peaceful workshop atmosphere.
This culture has been passed down through generations since the Edo period.

At Omori Warousoku (Candle Shop), they have been making traditional Japanese candles (warousoku) for six generations since the Edo period. Currently, the 6th generation, Mr. Omori Tarou, and his son craft each candle by hand, using natural materials.

These candles are made using a traditional Japanese technique called “Nama-Kake Seiho,” where melted wood wax is applied by hand onto a wick made of Japanese paper and rush grass and secured with pure cotton. The candles, known for their thick and large flames, are crafted with meticulous care. The technique, passed down through generations in the Omori family, is indeed being faithfully inherited by the current generation.

Hands holding a woven bamboo basket containing traditional Japanese binchotan charcoal pieces with distinctive radial patterns, displayed in a rustic workshop setting.
The culture that was once on the verge of decline has been passed down by the local residents who returned home

The culture that was once on the verge of decline has been passed down by the local residents who returned home.

The black charcoal made from oak trees in Uchiko-cho, is known as “kikusumi”, and is from the pattern of chrysanthemum. It is primarily used as charcoal for tea ceremony utensils because it produces minimal smoke when used.

I visited the workshop, Yamada-ya, and had the opportunity to speak with Mr. Yamada.

“Kikusumi” is produced during the dry season from November to March, and it takes about two weeks to complete due to the labor-intensive nature.

Mr. Yamada is from Ehime and had been working in Tokyo before, but he encountered charcoal-making artisans and decided to move there to establish his own workshop. While there was a period when the number of “kikusumi” producers declined, the return of Ehime locals like Mr. Yamada has ensured its continued legacy.

Intricate laser-cut or etched paper artwork featuring elaborate floral and botanical patterns in brown tones on white background.
Collaborating with artists from overseas creates new value to tradition.

The traditional Japanese paper “Ozu Washi” has been passed down since the Edo period, and is meticulously handcrafted by artisans. There was a period when it faced the threat of decline, but it was preserved by a small number of dedicated artisans.

Tenjin Washi Factory, also called Ikazaki Shachu Inc., collaborated with French artists to develop “Gilding Washi,” applying the traditional French gilding technique to Ozu Washi. This collaboration garnered attention both domestically and internationally, with the resulting traditional craft art pieces being exhibited and sold worldwide.

This collaboration between Japanese and French cultures has created new possibilities for future traditional cultural practices, which are being inherited and continued both at home and abroad.

~~~

As Mr. Yamada expressed his desire to give back to his hometown, and want to share the allure of the beloved “Kikusumi” without letting it fade away.

Not only the culture which is inherited through generations, also passed on by artisans from different backgrounds is admired. All have the same commitment to preserving traditions.

What’s most important is the collective sentiment among all these artisans: the profound belief that this wonderful culture must not be allowed to vanish. They wish for these treasures to be known by many and passed down to future generations.

Through experiencing various forms of inherited traditional culture, I grasped the heartfelt dedication of each artisan. I encourage you to visit workshops yourself and listen to the artisans’ stories. Through cultural experiences, you too can immerse yourself in the world of traditional culture in Uchiko town.

In the serene of Ozu, enjoy a blissful stay at a castle town hotel savoring every moment of tranquility and relaxation.

In Ozu, located just about an hour’s drive from Matsuyama, you can experience a luxurious stay beyond imagination.

Traditional Japanese castle tower framed by blooming cherry blossom branches against a soft blue sky.
Ozu Castle with Sakura

You can indulge in a one-of-a-kind experience, such as staying overnight in Ozu Castle and participating in a castle entry ceremony, where you can feel like a castle lord for a day. Additionally, you can enjoy breakfast at Garyu Sanso, a nationally designated important cultural property (exclusive to hotel guests), making your time here truly special. Moreover, in Ozu city, there are 23 hotels renovated from traditional Japanese houses, with cafes and miscellaneous goods shops nearby. You can also enjoy a luxurious stay in this castle town with its nostalgic atmosphere.

 

Traditional Japanese architecture with wooden beams and latticed windows, featuring a covered entrance with natural stone walls, wooden deck, and tropical plants in the foreground creating a serene garden atmosphere.
Garyu Sanso Villa

Ozu City has been recognized for its efforts in utilizing historical resources such as machiya (townhouses) and old folk houses for tourism development. In 2023, Ozu City received the top award in the “Culture & Tradition” category at the Green Destinations Story Awards. By appropriately preserving and utilizing culturally valuable assets, the region has also stimulated the local economy, and travelers’ stays in Ozu directly contribute to the community’s conservation efforts.

The Shikoku Pilgrimage, Ohenro-san overcomes challenges with a support by the mutual assistance and kindness of the local community along the way.

45th Iwaya-ji

In Japan, pilgrimage is often associated with the famous Kumano Kodo, a World Heritage Site, but there’s also the Shikoku Pilgrimage. While the Kumano Kodo is a pilgrimage route with a history of about 1000 years leading to the Kumano Sanzan, the Shikoku Pilgrimage follows the 88 temples that the monk Kobo Daishi practiced at around 1200 years ago, covering a distance of approximately 1400km* which is longer than the Kumano Kodo (160km along the Ise route). Visiting all the temples in one go takes about 40 days.

*following a circular route through Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, and Kagawa prefectures

During this year, leap year, instead of the usual sequential visit starting from number 1, a reverse pilgrimage starting from temple 88 counterclockwise is popular. It’s believed to bring even greater blessings, and you might even encounter Kobo Daishi himself.

In Ehime, there are 26 temples, and this time we experienced temples 44 (Daihoji) and 45 (Iwayaji) with Ohenro-san (pilgrimages)

Female pilgrim wearing traditional straw hat and walking staff stands before a historic Japanese Buddhist temple with ornate wooden architecture and decorative curtains bearing clan crests.
I was ready to go with the pilgrimage attire ! The sedge hat (sugegasa), white robe (byakue), round-necked robe (wagesa), and vajra staff (kongōzue) .

First, we visited Temple 44, Daihoji, and then walked the steep mountain path to Temple 45, Iwayaji. Along the way, we spotted red pilgrimage markers in the forest to prevent getting lost, and exchanged greetings and encouragement with other pilgrims we encountered. Together, we supported each other on the journey towards the temples.

Hiker with conical hat and blue backpack walking through a serene forest of tall, slender trees on a woodland trail.
Refreshing my mind with hiking in a deep forest

Our guide taught us how to Omairi (worship) properly, one of its is paying respects by making an offering a votive card and money, bowing, and dedicating sutras at the main hall.

Even with just two temple visits, it felt like a cleansing of the soul. Pilgrims undertake this visitation process at all 88 temples, so the feeling of accomplishment when completing them all must be truly special and unique to pilgrims.

Ohenro-san overcomes its rigorous training with their own strength as well as the support of the local community. As a manifestation of this support, there’s a culture of hospitality where pilgrims receive “o-settai,” which can include meals, clothing, or even rides to accommodations. During our journey. We received sweets from our guide, and offered a Portuguese pilgrim a ride to their accommodation, this is really “o-settai” with each other.

The Shikoku Pilgrimage is longer and more challenging than the Kumano Kodo. However, experiencing the culture of o-settai, where people around you offer support, and wholeheartedly visiting each temple imbued with a mystical power, travelers can feel a great sense of accomplishment after the experience.

Rows of weathered stone jizo statues line a forest path leading to stone steps adorned with colorful Japanese banners at a temple site.
Many statues with wish on the way to ahead to Iwaya-ji
My Reflections…

Through this journey, I’ve discovered the charm of Ehime, including its traditional crafts, historical buildings, and mystical pilgrimages, which are still relatively unknown. I’ve also felt the heartfelt desire of local people to pass on their culture to others. I strongly believe in sharing these experiences with more people. Traveling during the off-peak season allows for a more enjoyable experience without crowds, and travelers can truly immerse themselves in unknown cultures, leading to greater satisfaction.

Tricolage have delivered many such journeys to foreigners who are yet to explore these hidden gems, and our clients who have experienced these trips have highly praised them. Why not embark on a journey with us to explore new experiences?

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Slow Japan: Cycling Along the Coast of Wakayama https://tricolage.com/magazine/slow-japan-cycling-along-the-coast-of-wakayama/ Wed, 27 Mar 2024 04:30:14 +0000 https://tricolage.com/?p=6500 Cycle Japan's beautiful Wakayama coast, blending slow tourism with culture and self-care

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Some time ago, we talked about *how to turn your travel into a wellness and self-care holiday. One of the ways to ensure that your travel time is of quality is to prioritize quality over quantity: making conscious choices and living the travel experience consciously and fully.

Japan hides unique and little-known gems close to the most emblematic (and sometimes crowded) places. Often, foreign travellers are unaware that there are places of great natural and cultural value very close to the most famous cities. Travel at your own pace and enjoy each stage of the journey to leave quality experiences during your trip.

Cyclist riding a turquoise road bike along a coastal road in Wakayama, with turquoise ocean waters, sandy beach, and misty mountains in the background.
Photo provided by Wakayama Prefecture Tourism Federation

Today we take you on a trip to a charming destination that maybe you’ve never heard about before: Wakayama. Come and experience a journey of gastronomic pleasure and a slow pace of life thanks to the use of a sustainable method of transport: the bicycle.

Aerial view of a secluded coastal cove in Wakayama with crystal-clear turquoise waters, white sandy beach, and rocky cliffs surrounded by lush green mountains.
Photo provided by Wakayama Prefecture Tourism Federation

The coastline of Wakayama

Wakayama prefecture is located on the west side of the Kii Peninsula and has one of the most beautiful white beaches in Japan: Shirarahama Beach. Wakayama can be reached in just 1h30 from Kyoto and 1h from Osaka, making it an easily accessible place during your trip to Japan.

This region will take your breath away thanks to its combination of stunning mountains, white beaches and unique traditions. The famous Kumano Kodo -Japan’s emblematic pilgrimage route- runs through Wakayama, and you can discover it in a unique way by bike, as there is a paved section that you can cycle along. Immerse yourself in the unique atmosphere of this ancestral place, forget the burdens of everyday life and renew your energy.

The combination of nature and culture is outstanding, as you discover emblematic temples while visiting unique natural sites. This is the case of the Nachi Falls, which stands next to the Kumano Nachi Taisha temple.

Another great reward for the effort of cycling is to reach the Holy Mountain: Koyasan. A world heritage site which is accessible via a hill climb route. When reaching the top, a solemn gate with a height of 25m (Daimon) waits for you at the main entrance. The scenery along the road is impressive in all areas, and there are options for all ages and fitness levels.

Buddhist monks in orange robes gathered before a traditional Japanese temple with ornate lantern and autumn foliage in Wakayama, Japan.
Photo provided by Wakayama Prefecture Tourism Federation

Slow tourism and cycling in Japan

Slow tourism is the perfect combination of sustainability and self-care, as it benefits us as travellers and the environment we visit.

Indoor hot spring bath with stone walls and wooden ceiling overlooking turquoise ocean and white sandy beach through large glass windows in Wakayama, Japan.
Photo provided by Wakayama Prefecture Tourism Federation

To escape and rest from the cycling, what better place than “Japan’s Aegean Sea”? The white sand and ultramarine waters of Wakayama’s Shirasaki Coast are the perfect setting for relaxation.

Discovering Japan in a leisurely way, cycling through a little-known region, is also a way to maintain your self-care routines during your holiday. Maintain a healthy lifestyle and exercise in your free time. Combine this with the wellness of an onsen in Wakayama and the unique atmosphere of the ancestral trails.

This coastal region also offers unique culinary delights to enjoy in good company. Here you can savour dishes unique to the region such as “Mehari Sushi” and “Kaki no Ha Sushi“. In fact, in Wakayama Prefecture is located Yuasa, a village known for being the birthplace of soy sauce in Japan. An ingredient that today is found in kitchens all over the world, and it’s a staple in Japanese cuisine. In addition, Wakayama is Japan’s top producer of premium fruit, so if you are passionate about the freshness of Asian fruit, here you will find seasonal products at any time of the year.

Orange trees laden with ripe fruit in a Wakayama citrus grove, with lush green mountains and blue sky in the background.
Photo provided by Wakayama Prefecture Tourism Federation

As for cycling, you will be in a particularly interesting area, as a network of cycle paths called “WAKAYAMA 800” is currently being built. 800km of perfectly signposted tracks, prepared and equipped for your comfort.

Explore the Cycling Kingdom of Wakayama

Travelling slower is a way to create moments with meaning and purpose. It allows us to fully enjoy the here and now, to connect to the destination, its people, and to share lasting experiences with our travel mates. In addition, travelling sustainably, opting for transport that has a positive impact on the environment and reducing our carbon footprint, makes us responsible travellers with the planet.

Ready to discover this region, which aspires to be “The Cycling Kingdom of Wakayama”, during a healthy and unforgettable holiday of sustainable tourism?

Solo hiker sitting on dramatic cliff edge overlooking layered mountain ranges in Wakayama, Japan under a clear blue sky.
Photo provided by Wakayama Prefecture Tourism Federation

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A Luxurious Escape from Life’s Demands https://tricolage.com/magazine/a-luxurious-escape-from-lifes-demands/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 03:53:00 +0000 https://tricolage.com/?p=5373 Find your luxurious escape and break away from life's demanding, everyday responsibilities

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Deepen your cultural journey with us.
Ready to start your sustainable travel experience?

Discover the harmony and beauty of Japan during a journey uniquely yours. Adapting to your travel dreams, we tailor-make an unforgettable trip crafted ​to your needs.

Black bird perched on a cherry blossom branch with delicate white flowers against a vibrant turquoise sky.

Have a look to some of the stunning destinations you can explore with us.

We take you to the lesser-known places on a journey back in time to get away from it all. Revitalise all five senses surrounded by the harmony and elegance of nature’s colours, in the warm atmosphere of its scent.

Be inspired by the unseen and surprised by new flavours. Dive deep into the high culture and the everyday lives of local people and take a moment of wellbeing.

Moss-covered stone steps ascending through a serene forest of tall cedar trees, creating a peaceful natural pathway bathed in dappled sunlight.

A Natural Retreat

There is a place in Japan where you can forget about the world surrounded by the power that nourishes the vestiges of the past. Recharge your batteries with the strength of Japan’s centuries-old tradition in an environment steeped in history. Discover traces of ancient routes that take you back in time, the perfect scenario for your well-being.

Harmonise your senses in an escape that assures relaxation thanks to the silence and harmony of historic shrines in a Network of World Heritage Pilgrimage Trails. A sacred rock over 40 metres high stands like a giant to remind you of the greatness of the world and help you to forget life demands. A perfect place to indulge in a self-care whim, pamper yourself and rest your mind and soul.

Glazed salmon fillet with caramelized golden-brown skin, garnished with sesame seeds and chopped scallions, served on a white plate with savory sauce.

Crafting Timeless Culinary Memories

Surrounded by a rural landscape still intact, embark on a flavourful journey in Maruyama village. The delicacy and care with which the local farmers grow and harvest the vegetables is felt directly in every bite. French cuisine becomes at Tamba Sasayama a delight of new flavours, infused with locally sourced spring ingredients.

A select and refined selection of wines from around the world accompanies your culinary journey with grace and elegance in a renovated 150 year old house. Relaxation time surrounded by the natural calm in the Japanese countryside. The rare pearl that nourishes all your senses.

Cherry blossoms in full bloom framing a traditional Japanese temple with turquoise water and moss-covered ground in the background.

A Luxurious Escape from Life’s Demands

Close to the city of Kyoto and far enough away to forget the hustle and bustle of the streets, there is the rural village of Miayama. This charming place welcomes you to experience a journey to ancient times. Escape from the mundane and enjoy a thatched-roof farmhouse all to yourself.

Do you want to know what it feels like to stay in a house with roofs made using the Intangible Cultural Heritage Kayabuki technique? Can you already imagine what it would be like to travel back to the traditional 19th century? Wake up in this unique place surrounded by the fragrance and beauty of the trees, in a very quiet and uncrowded area, and allow yourself a complete escape.

Ready to start a journey uniquely yours?

Get in touch and let us know your wishes! 

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Experience the Extraordinary Luxury Journey Savoring the Everyday Life of Hachijojima https://tricolage.com/magazine/experience-the-extraordinary-luxury-journey-savoring-the-everyday-life-of-hachijojima/ Fri, 26 Jan 2024 04:27:00 +0000 https://tricolage.com/?p=5414 Savor the extraordinary luxury of everyday island life on tranquil Hachijojima

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When you think of a trip to Tokyo, you probably imagine skyscrapers and cutting-edge culture. However, did you know that Tokyo has such a nature-rich island?

Hachijojima, is an island located in the southern part of the Izu Islands within the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. With its abundant nature and unique culture, this island, just about a one-hour flight from Tokyo, takes you to a world that seems unlike Tokyo.

In this article, we will share the new face of Tokyo which we discovered during a 2-night and 3-day trip to Hachijojima specifically designed for luxury foreign visitors, organized by Tricolage in December 2023.

Volcanic Mount Hachijo rising from the turquoise ocean waters of Hachijojima Island, framed by golden coastal grasses and rocky shoreline under a bright blue sky.

Knowing the origin and culture of Hachijojima Island

On the first day, we focused on culture and learned about the unique history and culture of the island.

Traditional Japanese wooden shrine with stone lanterns and ceremonial decorations, viewed from a dining table with sake cups and wooden plates in the foreground at Hachijojima.

Tamaishigaki – a stone wall

Tamaishigaki, a stone wall built by gathering round stones to protect dwellings from rain and wind. We visited the Ozato area near the former island government office, where many of these stone walls remain. We had the privilege of hearing a special talk from Mr. Kunihito Kikuchi, who has inherited the technique of building stone walls using the “roppouzumi” method, where one stone is surrounded by five others.

Elderly Japanese man wearing glasses and a light blue jacket standing in front of traditional stone walls on Hachijojima Island.

People of former days transported round stones (approximately 20-25 kilograms), washed by strong waves on the coast, and stacked them by adhering them with soil. To stack them neatly, it is crucial to choose egg-shaped stones of similar sizes and ensure that all faces of the stones touch each other. Mr. Kunihito shared, ” I helped my father repair stones since high school, I naturally acquired the skills. Even now, if something breaks, I repair it.”

Then, Mr. Kunihito performed “Shome-bushi,” an island folk song sung with hand clapping at Hachijojima’s bon dances and gatherings. It was a wonderful experience for the guests to directly learn about the origin of stone walls and folk songs from the island’s way of life, and everyone left satisfied.

Touching upon the culture of Kōhachijō with the inheritor

Kihachijo, a traditional craft and one of Japan’s three major textiles, is known for its distinctive dyeing and weaving techniques. This silk fabric features three main colors derived from plant-based dyes: yellow, reddish yellow, and black. In the past, it was woven on ground looms but on high looms in modern times. Kihachijo is considered to be the island’s name origin.

Artisan hand weaving golden-yellow silk fabric on a traditional loom in Hachijojima, showcasing the island's renowned textile craftsmanship.

Mr. Homare Yamashita, who has been passing down the dyeing and weaving techniques through generations, takes pride in the continuation of this cultural heritage. “The dyeing technique has been exclusively passed down in the Yamashita family for generations. These unique three colors have brought happiness to the people of this island that cannot be found elsewhere.”

We had the opportunity to see the traditional ground loom and the precious Kihachijo kimono. As a special experience, we participated in a part of the dyeing process, dyeing a scarf in yellow. The scarf we dyed ourselves became a one-of-a-kind souvenir.

The guests who experienced the precious tradition expressed, “It was a truly wonderful authentic experience. We hope that Mr. Yamashita, without bearing the burden alone, will continue to pass down this traditional culture for a long time to come,” they felt a strong desire for cultural inheritance.

Visitors participating in traditional silk fabric weaving workshop at Hachijojima, stretching golden-yellow kihachijo silk textile in a sunlit traditional Japanese workspace.

Having the blessings of Hachijojima’s cuisine

We experienced harvesting “Umikaze Shiitake,” born from domestically cultivated mushroom beds, at the local farm, on the warm Hachijo Island. We grilled the freshly harvested shiitake on the spot and tasted them. Mr. Osawa, the president of the farm, guided us with overflowing local love, expressing his desire to enhance activities such as harvest experiences and tastings as part of the tourist farm. He also expressed a wish to collaborate with various islands to attract tourists and give back to his hometown.

The freshly grilled shiitake, grown under the influence of the island’s warm climate, was thick and incredibly delicious.

Fresh shiitake mushrooms growing on cultivation logs in a traditional Japanese mushroom farm on Hachijojima Island.

As the conclusion of a day filled with learning and experiencing the history and origin of the island, we enjoyed a special Italian dinner prepared by the chef of Elio Locanda Italiana, which has deep connections to Hachijo Island. The menu featured abundant use of ingredients sourced from Hachijo Island, and the chef offered a full Italian course, including a risotto made with shiitake harvested pasta with Ashitaba leaf and Hachijo lemon, Hachijo cheese cannoli, and a Hachijo passion fruit mousse.

The chef shared, “I have visited Hachijo Island several times and have established connections with local producers. So, I directly sourced abundant ingredients for today’s menu, most of which are from Hachijo Island.”

Gourmet meat dish topped with shaved cheese on a vibrant red pepper sauce, garnished with microgreens and served on an elegant gold-rimmed plate.

The guests were delighted with the special dinner offered by the chef, who is well-versed in the island’s ingredients. They commented, “It was a perfect experience where we could fully enjoy Hachijo Island’s ingredients—a truly memorable and wonderful dining experience.”

Staying luxuriously on the island

The accommodation for this trip, LAVA SAUNA & VILLA, is a luxury resort surrounded by abundant nature. It offers a comfortable space where nature and sauna seamlessly merge, allowing you to fully enjoy an exquisite relaxation experience and forget the passage of time. The sauna under the starry sky is exceptional!

Modern blue geodesic dome-shaped lava sauna with wooden door, set against a backdrop of lush green trees in a tranquil outdoor wellness area at Hachijojima.

Interacting with the locals surrounded by Hachijojima’s Nature

On the second day, we experienced the grand nature of Hachijo Island, including its volcanoes and plants, through our five senses.

Aerial view of Hachijojima's dramatic volcanic crater rim covered in lush green vegetation, with steep cliffs descending to the turquoise Pacific Ocean under partly cloudy skies.

Hiking in the beautiful volcanic crater of Hachijo Fuji

Hachijo Fuji, towering to the west of Hachijo Island, is the highest peak in the Izu Islands at an elevation of 854 meters, resembling the majestic Mount Fuji. The trail to the volcanic crater has many stairs, making it relatively easy to walk, and even beginners can comfortably trek.

Ms.Ohrui, a nature guide, explained the flora, fauna, and the formation of Hachijo Fuji. “What makes Hachijo Island unique is that you can enjoy both volcanoes, the ancient Mt. Mihara and the newer Hachijo Fuji. Since this island was formed by a volcano, creatures have come across the sea, and there are no large mammals. Therefore, the plants here have grown in a different natural environment compared to the mainland. With their defense mechanisms diminishing, the plants on Hachijo Island are a bit lazy, haha.”

Group of hikers trekking along a grassy hillside trail on Hachijojima Island with volcanic mountains and clear blue sky in the background.

Listening to such stories, we arrived at the volcanic crater trail. From here, we ascended a slightly challenging path to the summit. The view from the top, overlooking the lush crater, the endless sea, and the entire island, is exceptional. Within the crater, surrounded by a deep forest, there’s also Asama Shrine, named after Mt. Fuji and a place of worship for the residents. The guests exclaimed, “The weather is perfect, and this is a fantastic activity. For me, it’s a ‘must’ on the island!” The breathtaking scenery from the summit left the guests exhilarated.

Feeling the excitement with Hachijo lemon and Hachijo dram

At the Hachijo Lemon Farm, specializing in a unique lemon variety where both the peel and the flesh are edible, Mr. Nishihama, who cultivates these lemons, shared that he spent about 10 years experimenting and refining the unique variety. We had the opportunity to taste these lemons and then enjoyed lemon soda, pinchos, pasta, and tiramisu at a nearby cafe.

Hand holding two freshly picked golden oranges in a citrus grove on Hachijojima Island, with ripe fruit hanging from trees in the background.

While enjoying the meal, we were treated to a special performance of powerful Hachijo Taiko drumming. Mr. Nishihama and Mr. Chris, demonstrated a unique Hachijo Island drumming style. They placed the drum horizontally on a stand and played it together, with one person providing the rhythm (downbeat) and the other improvising freely in response to it (upbeat).

Mr. Chris, who is from United States, shared “ I was a drummer and was deeply impressed by the performance of Hachijo Taiko. So I decided to move to Hachijo Island and play as a member of the Hachijo Taiko group. I want to convey the greatness of this performance to many people.” It’s inherited that people from overseas also share the charm of traditional Hachijo Taiko.

Two performers in traditional blue happi coats playing a large taiko drum in a vibrant studio space, with an illuminated "Aperol Spritz" sign and colorful artwork in the background.

After their performance, the guests had the chance to experience playing the drums themselves, creating a connection through the atmosphere and vibrant music. One participant expressed, “Being able to participate in the performance and connect with everyone through music is a great experience!” Everyone thoroughly enjoyed the lively atmosphere.

Enjoy a relaxing time through life on the island

On the third day, we leisurely experienced island life with the islanders.

Aerial view of Hachijojima's volcanic peninsula with lush green slopes and dramatic exposed rock formations jutting into the deep blue Pacific Ocean under a clear sky.

Unhabituated island Hachijo Kojima

We embarked on a fishing boat cruise to the uninhabited island near Hachijo Island, called Hachijo Kojima. With special permission, we landed on the island and were able to observe it up close. The Village ruins of the former settlement hint at the lives of the islanders who lived there until about 60 years ago.

Currently, the island is gradually returning to its natural state and has become a breeding ground for the near-threatened species, the Black-footed Albatross. Normally, entry for general tourists is prohibited during this season, but for this occasion, we landed with the guidance of nature guide, Ms. Iwasaki, ensuring minimal impact on the environment. We explored the island while being mindful of its surroundings.

A seabird soaring gracefully against dramatic turquoise ocean waves crashing below, capturing the wild coastal beauty of Hachijojima Island.

Ms. Iwasaki who is also town councillor supervised the entire tour emphasizing a strong connection to nature. She expressed, “In naturally abundant places like Hachijo Island, I hope we can balance nature conservation with economic activities. I want to protect the rare Black-footed Albatross and, once their numbers increase, I would like to show them to visitors.” The guests were highly satisfied with the extraordinary experience of landing on a seldom-visited island and enjoying various aspects of the island from the boat.

A unique culinary adventure with the charming islander

We enjoyed cooking Shima-zushi (island sushi) with Eiko, a beloved grandma cherished by the islanders. Shima-zushi is a local dish where seasonal fish is marinated in soy sauce, placed on slightly sweetened vinegar rice, and topped with mustard. In the warm and homely atmosphere of the traditional island residence, we made Shima-zushi and tempura with Ashitaba leaf, savoring the island’s hospitality and traditions.

Tourists in colorful traditional Japanese headbands participate in a hands-on mochi-making experience at a local workshop in Hachijojima, guided by an instructor.

While making sushi, Eiko Grandma praised everyone with words like “Excellent! Very good! Well done!” Crossing the language barrier, genuine connections were formed between her and the guests.

The guests enjoyed eating and said, “It tastes even better because we made it ourselves! It’s a fantastic experience to interact with the locals and gain a deeper understanding of the tradition.” They were highly satisfied.

Eiko Granma shared, “I’m doing these experiences to spread the island’s culture.” Her heartfelt intentions were conveyed, adding a special touch to the overall experience.

Assorted nigiri sushi platter on decorative plate featuring fresh scallop, salmon, yellowtail, and seaweed garnish from Hachijojima

Cheers to this enjoyable trip with Hachijo Shochu at the end

Hachijo shochu produced on Hachijo Island has been cherished by the islanders for a long time. At Yamada store, they sell authentic shochu blends of the brewery, including potato, barley, and a blend of barley and potato. This time, we had a special tasting of four types of sake: “Imonosakejima Potato Shochu,” “Edo Shu Potato Shochu,” “Jonari Barley-Potato Blend Shochu,” and “Ogasawara Rum Gold.”

Mr. Yamada, the owner, expressed his desire to convey the island’s food culture through shochu that allows people to savor the island’s nature and culture. The guests who tried the tasting commented, “It’s a great opportunity to buy locally produced items, and tasting shochu is very interesting.” They thoroughly enjoyed it.

Four bottles of Japanese sake and shochu arranged on a wooden tray, featuring local Hachijojima spirits including traditional sake bottles with Japanese calligraphy labels and tropical-themed shochu bottles.

Enriching the Heart on Hachijo Island

Throughout the three-day tour, we pursued the luxury of enriching the heart by experiencing the charms of Hachijo Island. The diverse culture brought by its people and the Kuroshio current, the rich and unique nature specific to volcanic islands, and the lives of the islanders—all through our five senses.

Not only the locals, who exude love for their island, but also migrants from within and outside Japan are actively conveying the island’s charm in various ways. They are exceptionally kind to travelers. As the guests express, “The best charm is the interaction with the locals. This island and the people who call it home have a very special place in my heart.” Once you meet them, you’ll want to meet them again.

Elderly Japanese woman in traditional clothing warmly shaking hands with a visitor in a local workshop filled with crafts and supplies on Hachijojima Island.

On this tour, we crafted a Sustainable Luxury journey in collaboration with the local community. If you’re interested in organizing a trip that fosters connections with local residents, or if you’re seeking an experience in Sustainable Luxury travel, please reach out to Tricolage from here.

Consider exploring the captivating Hachijo Island, a novel destination just an hour away from Tokyo. Our team at Tricolage is dedicated to assisting those who aim to blend sustainability and luxury in their travels, or who wish to engage deeply with local communities.

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